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INSTITUTE FOR FIELD ORNITHOLOGY

2006 IFO Tropical Bird Ecology Report

Instructor: John Kricher • 16-23 March 2006 • Chan Chich Lodge, Gallon Jug, Orange Walk District, Belize, Central America

Maybe it was that Thursday was our travel day, not the weekend, but despite this being one of the infamous "Spring Break weeks," our workshop got off to a wonderful start when all 13 participants and both leaders arrived on schedule. From the international airport near Belize City along the Caribbean coast, we made a short 25-minute flight to the airstrip at Gallon Jug, in Western Belize, near the border with Guatemala. The latter part of the flight took us over "La Selva Maya," the vast forest that surrounds Chan Chich Lodge and is contiguous with the Peten in Guatemala. This is one of the most ecologically significant large forest tracts remaining in Central America. Once at the airstrip, we were met by the Chan Chich staff for the short ride to the lodge.

After being assigned cabanas and briefed about daily routine at the lodge, most of the class was already identifying Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds, Montezuma Oropendolas, and Red-lored Parrots, all before unpacking. Both spider and howler monkeys greeted us from the canopy of a large and bountiful fig tree. Crested Guans tried their best to look relatively graceful clambering about among the branches and Ocellated Turkeys strutted their stuff all around the grounds.

Dinner was enjoyed at a long table in the spacious Chan Chich dining room and the class was briefed on upcoming workshop activities. Most chose to go to bed early in preparation for tomorrow's field work.

Friday, 17 March, St. Patrick's Day, was spent among the Green -- of the forest. The class met for coffee at 06:00 and was soon out with Reuben, one of the local Chan Chich guides. This was a low-key walk designed to orient participants to the most common resident species. The workshop began in earnest after breakfast when, accompanied by Gilberto, who has guided at Chan Chich since 1987, we entered a forest that now covers former Mayan ruins from the Classic Period, about 500-900 A.D. As I pointed out various aspects of tropical forest structure, the class was introduced to a family of Pale-billed Woodpeckers, a small flock of Collared Aracaris, the hootings of the Blue-crowned Motmots, and the various calls of Violaceous and Slaty-tailed trogons. Inconspicuous in the understory were a Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher and White-throated Robin, and all got great views of each species. After I spoke of the forest structure, Gilberto related the dependence that Mayans had on the breadnut tree, a species that is numerous throughout the forest, especially where ruins are. The Mayan people cultivated this tree as a food source.

Our daily siesta was after lunch, from 13:00 to 15:00 after which our afternoon class began. I spoke about the characteristics of tropical bird communities and, at 15:30, again took the class to the forest accompanied by Marvin, yet another of Chan Chich's able guides. We walked the Loggers Trail, part of which follows the river. We saw birds coming toward day's end to bathe in the small riffle areas where water continues to flow even during the height of dry season. Coming to bathe were brightly colored Red-capped Manakins and much more subdued Ochre-bellied Flycatchers. These were joined by migrants such as Magnolia, Worm-eating, and Hooded warblers.

After dinner we did our nightly annotated check-list, not only listing what we all saw but discussing some of the attributes of the birds' natural histories. Alexander Skutch would have been proud of us.

Saturday 18 March was, like the previous day, sunny and pleasant, even a bit breezy. The oppressive heat and humidity for which the tropics are known were somewhere else that day.

Our early walk took us to the Sylvester Road, an old thoroughfare that connects the lodge with nearby Sylvester Village. The only traffic along the road is by foot and we quietly made our way in the early morning mist. Virtually our first species was Great Curassow. We had two males and two females scoot across the trail before us. Other highlights of the walk included good looks at Chestnut-colored Woodpecker, an ambitious Louisiana Waterthrush flipping leaves on the trail, and good looks at both sexes of Red-legged Honeycreepers. Adding to our growing mammal list, some of the participants saw the elusive tayra cross the trail and most got to see an agouti scamper across the trail.

After breakfast we returned to the Back Plaza, in the former city of the Mayans, now enclosed in wood and leaf, surface roots crossing old Mayan streets. I talked about mixed foraging flocks as we watched a mixed foraging flock. We noted Black-throated Shrike-Tanager, the so-called "leader of the pack," a nucleus species for the flock. In addition, we saw Lesser Greenlets, Pale-billed Woodpecker, Squirrel Cuckoo, and migrant species including Black-throated Green, Cerulean, and Chestnut-sided warblers. The amazing Gilberto had heard the very furtive and difficult to see Tody Motmot calling and patiently searched the dark, shaded understory. Success! Each of the group had long looks through the Brunton scope at this, perhaps the most sought after of the Chan Chich specialties. Some great video and photos were also obtained.

Our afternoon class was devoted to tropical diversity patterns and interactions among species. We made a late afternoon excursion along the River Trail, and, like much tropical birding, it was "quiet." There were few birds to be found. But just when you think the birds have abandoned you, things can change. Our guide, Reuben, noted a very quiet, skulking Barred Forest-Falcon perched deep in the understory near a dark watering hole frequented by many birds. Most of us got an excellent look at one of the most elusive birds of the forest. We were pleased. Predation is a major factor affecting nesting success and it was fortunate that we saw this remarkable bird species.

Sunday was our morning at the Escarpment, a broad overlook about 10 miles from the lodge, where soaring raptors are to be seen. The drive to the Escarpment passed the shade coffee plantation and continued through Sylvester Village. We saw both Scissor and Fork-tailed flycatchers as well as some raucous Brown Jays before stopping to enjoy a perched immature White Hawk. From the Escarpment itself we enjoyed good views of soaring White Hawks, King Vultures, Short-tailed Hawk, Swallow-tailed Kite, and Double-toothed Kite. On the drive back to the lodge we stopped at a large fig tree and observed a pair of nesting Rose-throated Becards. Also in the tree were a Piratic Flycatcher, some Red-legged Honeycreepers, and a flock of Orchard Orioles. Later we paused at the shade coffee plantation to discuss the ecology of shade coffee and how it helps support preservation of local biodiversity.

During my afternoon class we sat outside on the deck. As I discussed frugivory among birds the nearby fruiting bushes and water hole attracted Black-throated Saltator, Blue-gray Tanagers, Least Flycatcher, and Black-cheeked Woodpecker, visual aids of a sort.

After class we walked with Gilberto along the Sac Be Trail. Earlier Gilberto's incredible eyes had located a sleeping Spectacled Owl in the forest near the trail. We got outstanding looks at the stygian though it appeared thoroughly unimpressed by us. Digi-scopers among the crowd were pleased. Late afternoon is a time when birds gather at the small pools of running water along the river. We had wonderful looks at such species as Ruddy Quail-Dove, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher, Black-throated Shrike-Tanager, Red-capped Manakin, and Gray-headed Tanager. Many Nearctic migrant species joined these residents: Wood Thrush, Worm-eating, Kentucky, and Hooded warblers, both waterthrush species, and American Redstart. The most outstanding memory for some will be the male Purple-crowned Fairy dipping up and down into the water right in front of our group, its gorget and purple crown illuminated by the late afternoon sun.

Our pleasant tropical weather continued on Monday 20 March though humidity began creeping higher. Most of the group visited Laguna Seca, an expansive area of marsh near the lodge. Last March, with an ABA Century Club group, we found the water level quite low and shorebirds were present. Not so this year. Water was high. Nonetheless, we had excellent looks at some of the species that are found only in these habitats: Pinnated Bittern, Northern Jacana, and Purple Gallinule. As we arrived, several adult and one immature King Vultures were low over the marsh, just catching the thermals, allowing excellent looks at this unique species. As we were preparing to leave, our guide Marvin spotted a Laughing Falcon perched near our vehicle, providing outstanding looks for all the group. On the drive to Laguna Seca we saw a sizeable flock of Indigo Buntings along the roadside in grassy fields and, when stopped to identify some raptors, were lucky to see a puma and its cub scurry across the road in front of our vehicle.

My afternoon class was devoted to the sex lives of tropical bird species as they compare with those of their temperate counterparts. I discussed the likely reason why the tropical Mangrove Swallow, which we had seen often thus far, has testes ten times smaller than its congener in the temperate zone, the Tree Swallow. That sort of thing.

After class the group dispersed to begin individual research projects, something that would occupy each person for the final couple of days of the workshop.

After dinner we ventured forth for a night drive. After seeing some fast flying bats, several Pauraques, and a common opossum, the spotlights began to dim due to battery failure so we had to head back. We stopped on the bridge just before the lodge to do some stargazing. There was no moon and the stars were brilliant. We identified various constellations and just enjoyed our look into the universe.

Tuesday 21 March was a day of individual birding and research. Various teams were formed from within the group, "consultant" guides were chosen, and data collection began in earnest -- sort of. Martha and I did our best to be helpful but all seemed to be doing quite well at their chosen projects. And, of course, data collection did not get in the way of some quality birding time. The list continued to grow as the group's considerable skills added species after species to our collective list.

Before dinner we were joined by Bruce and Carolyn Miller, who have spent the past two decades doing research in Belize, most of it around Gallon Jug. Both are expert ornithologists. Bruce is also an authority on bats and Carolyn has done a great deal of research on cats, particularly jaguars. The Millers presented a comprehensive overview of conservation issues not only in Belize but in tropical America in general. There were many questions after their presentation and they were kind enough to join us for dinner, where lively conversation continued.

Wednesday 22 March was our final full day at Chan Chich. It was also the day of project reports. But first things first. Most of us drove to the Gallon Jug home of Bruce and Carolyn Miller, who invited us to see some of the hummingbirds, such as Green-breasted Mango and White-necked Jacobin, that are common around their property but less common around the lodge. After morning birding both before and after breakfast, groups got down to business and prepared their reports. At 11:30 I did a class on conservation biology and described the ABA's Birders' Exchange Program in detail.

The afternoon was devoted to project reports. It is amazing how folks become enthused once they begin to collect data on birds and how involved they quickly become with their efforts. One project was an effort to test the theory of island biogeography by comparing the birds of "La Isla Fontana," the compact artificial water area with surrounding fruiting trees near the dining room, with the larger cabana area. Another project was a detailed study of bat falcon hunting and nesting (the falcons seemed to prefer catching birds rather than bats). A third project involving three participants was focused on the Montezuma Oropendola colony. One person studied nest building by females while another detailed male behavior including driving away giant cowbirds. A third put the entire effort into a larger "philosophical" context, as well as carried chairs for the other two. Two folks detailed the avian visitors to a cluster of breadnut trees while another watched monkeys and birds in a huge fig tree. The oft seen Roadside Hawk was the subject of a study devoted to determining if the species really is partial to perching next to roads rather than elsewhere. Apparently they like roads a lot. Another participant walked a forest trail detailing what, when, and where he saw each of the species he encountered. Only one project did not yield hoped for data. One person wanted to study the behavior White-necked Puffbirds. He was there, binoculars and notebook ready, but apparently someone forgot to tell the puffbirds.

In any case, each of the mini-studies was fun to do, to present, and to discuss. We adjourned to the bar and later had a lively dinner and list session on this, the final evening of our trip. The next day, after some early morning birding, we went our separate ways.

Compiled and written by John Kricher, with assistance from Martha Vaughan

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