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ABA DONOR TRIP

Bay of Fundy and Brier Island, Nova Scotia

with Wayne and Betty Petersen
11-15 September 2002

Bird list

The ABA Bay of Fundy and Brier Island, Nova Scotia Trip for Century Club members was planned and led by Wayne and Betty Petersen. Wayne is the recent past Vice President of ABA and the Field Ornithologist for the Massachusetts Audubon Society. He leads birding tours for Mass Audubon and Field Guides, Inc. and he is a New England Regional Editor for North American Birds magazine. Betty is the Director of ABA's Birders' Exchange program. Our group, including Wayne and Betty, consisted of ten congenial and dedicated birders from as far away as California, Texas, Missouri, and Massachusetts.

Following a late afternoon gathering at the Saint John Comfort Inn in Saint John, New Brunswick, the group traveled to the nearby Falls Restaurant, located within sight of Saint John's famous "Reversing Falls", a spectacular tidal bore resulting from the giant tides in the Bay of Fundy. While enjoying a pleasing seafood dinner, the group received a brief introduction to the travel and birding plans for thenext several days. Following dinner and return to the Comfort Inn, the group retired in preparation for a ferry crossing of the Bay of Fundy and drive to Brier Island the next day.

Up early for a hearty breakfast at AJ's Family Restaurant, the intrepid group boarded the Princess of Acadia ferry, bound for Digby, Nova Scotia. Despite "pea soup fog", a hallmark of the Bay of Fundy, birding started as soon as we began the three hour crossing. Saint John Harbor offered the usual Double-crested Cormorants and Herring and Great Black-backed Gulls, but it was the offshore species that the group was anticipating. After ogling for nearly two hours at frustratingly distant forms evaporating into the shroud of cool fog cloaking Fundy's rich waters, the sun began to appear and observation gradually improved.

First it was the sight of Northern Gannets, large and lovely, that captured our attention. Not surprisingly for the location and season, most were birds in immature plumage in varying stages of transition to the gleaming white-with-black wingtips that would eventually bespeak adult plumage. Then shearwaters began to appear; Greater Shearwaters mostly, with a few Sooty Shearwaters mixed in for comparison. Southern Hemisphere breeders, these two species annually cross the equator to spend the austral winter feeding in the North Atlantic before returning to the Southern Hemisphere to nest in the fall. Greater Shearwaters, an Atlantic Ocean specialty, primarily breed in the distant South Atlantic archipelagos of Tristan de Cunha and the Falkland Islands. Despite the patchy fog and damp conditions on deck, most of the group eventually enjoyed satisfactory studies of Pomarine Jaegers, Common Murres, and at least one Atlantic Puffin. A special thrill was the ephemeral and distant appearance of a Great Skua, always a treasured find in the ABA area. In addition to a gentle introduction to North Atlantic seabirds, we were treated to repeated studies of Harbor Porpoises, a small marine mammal whose global existence is increasingly threatened in Canadian waters by fishing gear entanglement.

After disembarking at Digby and a meal of clams and scallops at the Fundy Restaurant on the Digby waterfront, we began a leisurely drive down Digby Neck to Brier Island. Despite threatening skies and increasing winds, before the afternoon was over, we garnered nice views of Common Loons, Green-winged Teal, a family of Ring-necked Ducks, our first (of many) Common Eiders, and what proved to be our only studies of Razorbills and Black Guillemots. With building winds, rough sea conditions, and the threat of an approaching hurricane moving up the Atlantic Coast, we settled into the comfortable Brier Island Lodge for several days of birding at the mouth of the Bay of Fundy.

Our first morning on the island witnessed the passing of the remains of a hurricane that was slowly working its way up the Atlantic Coast during the several days prior to our arrival. A pre-breakfast dawn vigil revealed hundreds of Northern Gannets, a few Red-necked Phalaropes, an adult Lesser Black-backed Gull, small numbers of Black-legged Kittiwakes, and several Common Terns being buffeted by the wind off Northern Light. Later in the morning an investigation of Westport Harbor produced wonderful land-based comparisons of Wilson's Storm-Petrel and Leach's Storm-Petrel as they sought refuge from the storm in the shelter of the harbor. Mudflats bordering the harbor offered forage for Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs, as well as a mixed flock of Semipalmated Plovers and Semipalmated Sandpipers.

The rest of the day was spent exploring various venues on lovely Brier Island that, even under gale conditions and scattered showers, allowed us to enjoy a wonderful study of an American Golden-Plover still in largely alternate plumage, and both White-rumped Sandpiper and Pectoral Sandpiper. A special highlight was the appearance of a pair of Caspian Terns resting on a small mudflat that permitted terrific views under gradually clearing skies. Unfortunately, weather conditions were not conducive for finding passerines.

In the evening following a delicious seafood meal and before retiring for the night, the group viewed an informative video on the Bay of Fundy and its various biological highlights.

Today the group was scheduled to participate in a seabird and whale-watching cruise in the Bay of Fundy to search for marine mammals and seabirds, especially phalaropes, which can be particularly abundant near the strong upwelling off Brier Island. Despite rough sea conditions we had fine looks at hundreds of Greater Shearwaters, lesser numbers of Sooty Shearwaters, Wilson's Storm-Petrels, Northern Gannets, hundreds of Red Phalaropes, and several Pomarine Jaegers, as well as a spectacular Fin Whale, the second largest mammal to have ever inhabited the planet. Back on shore in the afternoon, everyone enjoyed definitive and comparative views of Great and Double-crested Cormorants, along with another Lesser Black-backed Gull. Regrettably, land birding continued to be disappointing.

In the evening Wayne presented a slide lecture on seabirds and marine mammals as both an introduction and a follow up to the various species likely to be encountered on the Brier Island outing.

With clearing skies and warming temperatures, some of the group decided that another seabird trip would be worthwhile, especially since the boat captain offered free passes to all who went the day before but were disappointed by the lack of whale sightings due to rough weather. The second trip was worth it, particularly for the stunning views obtained of shearwaters (including Manx Shearwaters), Atlantic Puffins, and Humpback, Minke, and Fin Whales. No one who went was disappointed, and those that stayed in town enjoyed walking the scenic byways of the Westport waterfront, and hot coffee in a quaint coffee shop. Once the mariners returned, a visit to a quirky antique bookstore, The Spouting Whale was enjoyed by all.

After lunch a modest hawk flight developed and within an hour or two of leisurely hawk watching, our tally included 2 Bald Eagles, 200 Sharp-shinned Hawks, a Cooper's Hawk, 40 Broad-winged Hawks, 11 American Kestrels, and 12 Merlins. When combined with other raptors observed during our stay, the raptor species total for the trip was ten species.

Following dinner in the comfort of the Brier Island Lodge, Century Club member George Roland kindly shared his extensive knowledge of the geology of Brier Island and surrounding Nova Scotia with the group. A professional geologist, Nova Scotia native, and son of famous Canadian botanist, A. E. Roland, George willingly shared his broad knowledge of life in Nova Scotia throughout the trip.

Our departure from Brier Island saw a return of foggy and rainy weather, but undaunted, the group enjoyed a leisurely drive back to Digby, punctuated by the addition of Northern Pintail, Surf Scoter, and Olive-sided Flycatcher to our trip list. The return ferry crossing to New Brunswick was outstanding, despite the sloppy weather. Hundreds more shearwaters of three species were seen, as well as 15 Pomarine Jaegers, 18 Common Murres, and 10 Atlantic Puffins. The final sighting of the trip was a Red-throated Loon right off the bow of the ferry as we entered Saint John harbor.

Over a delicious and congenial farewell dinner in the cozy atmosphere of Grannan's Seafood Restaurant, Century Club members shared thoughts and ideas about ABA, its programs, and its future. All and all, a splendid way to end a perfect several days of birding, good fellowship, and gustatory delights.

For more information about ABA Donor Trips, please call (800) 850-2473 ext 233 or email .